Recently, through various channels, I acquired some DCC Concepts Turnout Motors (Point or Switch Engines) with DCC adapters built-in and some Dapol LMS Home and Distant signals with the intention to add them (slowly) to my current layout under construction.
After a brief conversation with the proprietor, and one of the other customers, at The Train Shop in Morecambe, Lancaster, UK (they're at 22 Pedder Street, check opening times, it's well worth it!) I'm pretty sure I know how it all goes together.
The idea is that when I use my PIKO controller to activate the turnout (point or switch), the Cobalt will move the tie-bar, and switch the signal from Stop to Go, or vice versa. Not terribly prototypical, but in my case quite handy, as I have a siding (goods) and platform (passengers) and wanted something that would work and look acceptable.
The first phase was to get the Piko kit (controller and decoder) working with the Cobalt point motor (switch / turnout engine). That didn't go quite as smoothly as I'd expected, so after much experimentation, here's the rundown.
Step 1 : Connect the DCC Decoder (Track) to the Cobalt
Actually very easy. It doesn't matter which way round the wires are connected, I just connected them to the wires coming from the Piko IR receiver/decoder unit.
Step 2 : Program the Cobalt from the Piko DCC Handset
This step got me hunting for the Piko manual. After decoding it, I finally got it right. The first thing to do is set the Cobalt from 'run' to 'set'. There's a little dip switch underneath the connection blocks, and it slides from left to right. Make sure it's set to the right.
Now, use the handset to perform the operation that you want to control the point. Oddly enough, I found that only the following actually works : first press the accessory selection button, then the address (i.e. 001), then the accessory button again, and disconnect the DCC IR receiver/decoder.
If you're wondering which button it is, it's the one that looks like a single turnout/point/switch. The double one is for programming locos, and the one with a loco on it is for selecting locos (!)
Step 3 : Activate the Cobalt from the Piko DCC Handset
Again, I got unstuck, and had to refer to the manual. First off, though, set the dip switch on the Cobalt from 'set' to 'run'. That's right to left on the current (2013) model.
Now, I assumed that pressing button-address-button would activate the motor, but I was wrong. You have to use the little red/green buttons at the bottom of the handset to activate the turnout motor / switch engine.
So, if you assigned address 001 to the motor, it is activated with the first set of buttons.
Step 4 : Connect the Dapol LMS Home Signal
Finally, it was time to check the signal connection.
It has two sets of wires. Red/Black for connection to a 16V AC power supply, and two yellow wires to connect to a push-button switch. At this point you have two possibilities. One is recommended by Dapol / Cobalt, and one appears to work okay, but may damage your signal.
The first is to attach a push-button to the Cobalt motor, in serial with the Dapol Signal (using the yellow wires).
The second is to connect the Dapol Signal yellow wires to the Cobalt 6,7,8 terminals which represent a SPDT switch. The issue here is that the SPDT switch, according to the wiring diagram provided by Cobalt, will be 'always on', as it's break before make.
This may, according to Cobalt, damage the components in the circuit (including things like the auto-reverse polarity circuitry) so they strongly discourage it. You have been warned.
If you choose to connect the signal directly to the Cobalt, you will need to split one of the wires so that there is one going to 'Common' and the other going to both LHS and RHS. It's probably better for the health of your signal to use a Berko/Eckon type LED signal instead...
That's about it - now all I need to do is drill a hole for the signal, install the Cobalt, and take photos!
Showing posts with label piko. Show all posts
Showing posts with label piko. Show all posts
Tuesday, 20 August 2013
Friday, 12 October 2012
Getting Started in Model Rail : High Street Brands
Everyone has to start somewhere in the model rail hobby, and one of the best ways is to buy some ready to run, off the shelf kit from one of the main high street brands.
There are many, many manufacturers of model rail equipment, locomotives and rolling stock, and they range from fairly specialist makes to two or three brands generally available on any high street, or via the web.
So, gauge by gauge, here is a guide to some of the most popular readily available brands for those just getting started with model rail.
OO - Hornby Railroad
Hornby International is one of the oldest established brands, with sub brands including Hornby, Hornby Railroad, and Lima.
Railroad is a hobby oriented brand, offering slightly cheaper, less detailed and lower specification locomotives and rolling stock.
Since the acquisition of Scalextric, some of the Railroad locomotives allegedly come with a Scalextric motor, leading them to be less smooth to operate, and with unrealistic acceleration and top speeds.
Despite this, it's a good starting point for a model rail enthusiast; but be aware that the couplers are not generally compatible with other brands such as Bachmann and more expensive Hornby models.
Railroad boxes are easy to spot, as they have yellow flashing on the bottom, below the window.
OO - Hornby
Within the Hornby range, there are also various levels of finishing and price. While any model from this range will be of good quality, some are better value than others.
Where Hornby does stand out is with the excellent selection of starter packs, which are available from many toy shops. Often these are laid out next to makes like Mehano, and Lima, which can make Hornby (and Bachmann) seem a bit expensive, but the additional investment is well worth it.
OO/HO - Bachmann
Like Hornby, Bachmann has a number of sub-brands in the group, some of which produce European outline stock in HO, US also in HO, and British outline in OO.
Personally, from the various models I have purchased, Bachmann locomotives seem to be better finished, and smoother than the Hornby equivalents, but that some of the Hornby rolling stock (brake vans, for example) offer better value.
Bachmann rolling stock also all comes with standard NEM pockets, making it easy to extend the collection with more rolling stock. It is organized by era to make it easier to cross-match rolling stock without needing to overload on research!
HO - Piko
For European outline stock, Piko is probably the most accessible, and is available in Expert and Hobby, mainly French and German stock, organized by era and region. This makes it easy to match up stock and keep a consistent rake together.
Piko also make good value packs of both freight and passenger trains, complete with track, controllers, and layout ideas.
Piko Hobby boxes can be spotted by the red flashing with Hobby written on them. Piko Expert boxes have blue flashing with Expert written on.
N - Graham Farish
While the smaller gauges (N and Z) are less popular, they require less space, and are gaining in popularity.
Graham Farish, a Bachmann sub brand, provide excellent quality models, at very reasonable prices.
Z - Marklin
Marklin is a bit of an odd-ball, having chosen to implement a 3 rail power system for its locomotives, rendering it incompatible with all the others mentioned here.
For all that, in Z gauge, it does have some interesting starter packs, and is a very space-conscious way to get into model rail as a hobby.
Finally, a few notes about track. Peco is perhaps the largest manufacturer of track, but Hornby also manufactures its own. Generally, it is not possible to mix track between manufacturers, so if a Hornby pack is bought, future expansions will also need Hornby track.
However, HO and OO will both run on the same set-track (i.e. pre-cut, slot together pieces) regardless of manufacturer.
Power is supplied to the track via a special adapter, as either DC or AC. 16v AC is used for so-called DCC (digital command control) trains, while DC is used for analogue sets.
If in doubt - start with a DC (i.e. analogue) solution, as DCC can always be added at a later date. It's far harder to start with DCC as it comes with a whole slew of options, settings, and possibilities that baffle even experienced model rail enthusiasts!
So, gauge by gauge, here is a guide to some of the most popular readily available brands for those just getting started with model rail.
OO - Hornby Railroad
Hornby International is one of the oldest established brands, with sub brands including Hornby, Hornby Railroad, and Lima.
Railroad is a hobby oriented brand, offering slightly cheaper, less detailed and lower specification locomotives and rolling stock.
Since the acquisition of Scalextric, some of the Railroad locomotives allegedly come with a Scalextric motor, leading them to be less smooth to operate, and with unrealistic acceleration and top speeds.
Despite this, it's a good starting point for a model rail enthusiast; but be aware that the couplers are not generally compatible with other brands such as Bachmann and more expensive Hornby models.
Railroad boxes are easy to spot, as they have yellow flashing on the bottom, below the window.
OO - Hornby
Within the Hornby range, there are also various levels of finishing and price. While any model from this range will be of good quality, some are better value than others.
Where Hornby does stand out is with the excellent selection of starter packs, which are available from many toy shops. Often these are laid out next to makes like Mehano, and Lima, which can make Hornby (and Bachmann) seem a bit expensive, but the additional investment is well worth it.
OO/HO - Bachmann
Like Hornby, Bachmann has a number of sub-brands in the group, some of which produce European outline stock in HO, US also in HO, and British outline in OO.
Personally, from the various models I have purchased, Bachmann locomotives seem to be better finished, and smoother than the Hornby equivalents, but that some of the Hornby rolling stock (brake vans, for example) offer better value.
Bachmann rolling stock also all comes with standard NEM pockets, making it easy to extend the collection with more rolling stock. It is organized by era to make it easier to cross-match rolling stock without needing to overload on research!
HO - Piko
For European outline stock, Piko is probably the most accessible, and is available in Expert and Hobby, mainly French and German stock, organized by era and region. This makes it easy to match up stock and keep a consistent rake together.
Piko also make good value packs of both freight and passenger trains, complete with track, controllers, and layout ideas.
Piko Hobby boxes can be spotted by the red flashing with Hobby written on them. Piko Expert boxes have blue flashing with Expert written on.
N - Graham Farish
While the smaller gauges (N and Z) are less popular, they require less space, and are gaining in popularity.
Graham Farish, a Bachmann sub brand, provide excellent quality models, at very reasonable prices.
Z - Marklin
Marklin is a bit of an odd-ball, having chosen to implement a 3 rail power system for its locomotives, rendering it incompatible with all the others mentioned here.
For all that, in Z gauge, it does have some interesting starter packs, and is a very space-conscious way to get into model rail as a hobby.
Finally, a few notes about track. Peco is perhaps the largest manufacturer of track, but Hornby also manufactures its own. Generally, it is not possible to mix track between manufacturers, so if a Hornby pack is bought, future expansions will also need Hornby track.
However, HO and OO will both run on the same set-track (i.e. pre-cut, slot together pieces) regardless of manufacturer.
Power is supplied to the track via a special adapter, as either DC or AC. 16v AC is used for so-called DCC (digital command control) trains, while DC is used for analogue sets.
If in doubt - start with a DC (i.e. analogue) solution, as DCC can always be added at a later date. It's far harder to start with DCC as it comes with a whole slew of options, settings, and possibilities that baffle even experienced model rail enthusiasts!
Tuesday, 31 July 2012
How to Set Train Address with Piko Digi Fern
The Piko Digi Fern is the name given to the remote control device that comes with the Piko Digital starter set (for example Piko 57156
). Out of the box you usually get some rails, a DCC locomotive (set to C, or 003, more on that later) some rolling stock, the Digi Fern remote, and an IR receiver.
The first step is setup - and it's important when setting train addresses with the Piko Digi Fern that everything is set up correctly. There are two ways to set the address:
Special note for those programming on the main layout line - please disconnect all accessories (such as DCC Cobalt switch engines or similar) and LED lights before continuing. I have lost a few LEDs due to this oversight, as well as reprogrammed a couple of accessories!
(My service track is just a bit of G231 (Piko H0 55201 H0
) and a bit of G239 (Piko H0 55200 H0 Straight track G239
) nailed to a board, with a couple of banana connectors to hook up the IR receiver!)
Setting the Train Address with the Piko Digi Fern
The special key to start programming is usually the third from the left on the top row, next to the red "stop" button.It looks like a double-branch or double point. There's a similar single point one next to it, used to activate DCC accessories like points and switches.
I'll call this key [P] for now. The key sequence is:
During the process of setting the address, the loco will move, in twitches, so it's best to start with it as far back on the service track as possible.
Once programming has finished (and the light on the IR receiver has stopped flashing), the train can be selected using the train button, followed by the loco address. When the system is switched on, the A - D keys are allocated to loco addresses 1 - 4, so it is easiest to stick with these numbers, as just the 'channel select' button A to D can be used to pick up control of a loco.
The official Piko Digital User Guide has now been translated into English, and can be downloaded from the Piko Web Site.
Any questions or comments can be left below in the comments section. Links are affiliate links that go to Amazon.co.uk, for which the author receives a modest commission for any products bought.
). Out of the box you usually get some rails, a DCC locomotive (set to C, or 003, more on that later) some rolling stock, the Digi Fern remote, and an IR receiver.The first step is setup - and it's important when setting train addresses with the Piko Digi Fern that everything is set up correctly. There are two ways to set the address:
- on the main layout;
- on a service track.
Special note for those programming on the main layout line - please disconnect all accessories (such as DCC Cobalt switch engines or similar) and LED lights before continuing. I have lost a few LEDs due to this oversight, as well as reprogrammed a couple of accessories!
(My service track is just a bit of G231 (Piko H0 55201 H0
) and a bit of G239 (Piko H0 55200 H0 Straight track G239) nailed to a board, with a couple of banana connectors to hook up the IR receiver!)Setting the Train Address with the Piko Digi Fern
The special key to start programming is usually the third from the left on the top row, next to the red "stop" button.It looks like a double-branch or double point. There's a similar single point one next to it, used to activate DCC accessories like points and switches.
I'll call this key [P] for now. The key sequence is:
- [P][P][train address]
[P]
During the process of setting the address, the loco will move, in twitches, so it's best to start with it as far back on the service track as possible.
Once programming has finished (and the light on the IR receiver has stopped flashing), the train can be selected using the train button, followed by the loco address. When the system is switched on, the A - D keys are allocated to loco addresses 1 - 4, so it is easiest to stick with these numbers, as just the 'channel select' button A to D can be used to pick up control of a loco.
The official Piko Digital User Guide has now been translated into English, and can be downloaded from the Piko Web Site.
Any questions or comments can be left below in the comments section. Links are affiliate links that go to Amazon.co.uk, for which the author receives a modest commission for any products bought.
Friday, 18 November 2011
Piko Digi Fern Blog Note
For first steps into DCC (digital command control for model trains) manufacturers like PIKO have produced relatively accessible solutions. The Piko Digi Fern controller, for example, is an IR device which can be used to wirelessely control trains, and looks rather like a standard TV controller.
Here's the catch - programming functions are limited to assigning addresses to loco, switch engine and other device decoders. So, a separate programming track will be required, despite the fact that there are about a hundred buttons on the PIKO Digi Fern, it is less capable than it might at first seem!
Here's the catch - programming functions are limited to assigning addresses to loco, switch engine and other device decoders. So, a separate programming track will be required, despite the fact that there are about a hundred buttons on the PIKO Digi Fern, it is less capable than it might at first seem!
Wednesday, 13 July 2011
Setting up IguanaWorks IR with the Piko Digi-Fern
One of the key components of my DCC shelf switching (and eventual continuous layout, I've decided!) show-ready, modular railway layout is the possibility to not only control it 'live' but also using a computer.
This means, in my case, being able to schedule IR signals from a computer. I realise that there are other ways to do this, but this appeals to my inner geek, so it is the approach I have chosen, at least for now.
There's a bunch of things that you'll need if you want to play along on this journey:
The key to using this specific piece of equipment is to remember to always start the daemon software, which communicates with the USB connected hardware.
Next up is to install WinLIRC - and that just requires unpacking the archive to the hard drive. There are several steps that could follow, but for now, the WinLIRC software can be roundly ignored, as the Piko Digi-Fern controller needs to be set up.
Luckily that's pretty easy :
So, where does this leave me? Well, I can now communicate with the railroad, in theory, but I've got a sneaking suspicion that I need to either use the (Win)LIRC transmit application in a batch file, or write my own, fully functional, control center software package.
Watch this space - first I want to build the railway!
(I also have a LIRC file for fellow Piko Digi-Fern users to save you a bit of work!)
This means, in my case, being able to schedule IR signals from a computer. I realise that there are other ways to do this, but this appeals to my inner geek, so it is the approach I have chosen, at least for now.
There's a bunch of things that you'll need if you want to play along on this journey:
- an IR transceiver (I chose one from the IguanaWorks)
- the LIRC or WinLIRC software (I have both, instructions here are for WinLIRC)
- a DCC, IR controlled model railway (mine happens to be a Piko Digital)
The key to using this specific piece of equipment is to remember to always start the daemon software, which communicates with the USB connected hardware.
Next up is to install WinLIRC - and that just requires unpacking the archive to the hard drive. There are several steps that could follow, but for now, the WinLIRC software can be roundly ignored, as the Piko Digi-Fern controller needs to be set up.
Luckily that's pretty easy :
- start the IR daemon (found in the IguanaWorks install folder)
- in a 'cmd' window (Start->Run, enter cmd and hit enter) locate the WinLIRC folder
- type, without quotes, "IRRecord.exe -f -d IguanaPlugin.dll ..\piki-digi-fern.cfg"
So, where does this leave me? Well, I can now communicate with the railroad, in theory, but I've got a sneaking suspicion that I need to either use the (Win)LIRC transmit application in a batch file, or write my own, fully functional, control center software package.
Watch this space - first I want to build the railway!
(I also have a LIRC file for fellow Piko Digi-Fern users to save you a bit of work!)
Newbie Reasons for Using DCC
The fundamental decision whether to run trains (points, signals, and so on) using DCC or analogue control is one best taken at the start of the model railway design process. In my case, I decided almost immediately that I wanted DCC for two reasons:
The Piko Digital system (H0, or HO, with Piko A tracks) is also controlled by an infra-red remote control, which I intend to use to prepare a computer-controlled DCC system. Now, I'm aware that there are manufacturers that can give me a box to do this, but I'm a bit of a geek and want to build my own from the ground up:
- I didn't want to create track 'segments' to run multiple trains
- I'm a geek and wanted, eventually, to move to computer control
The Piko Digital system (H0, or HO, with Piko A tracks) is also controlled by an infra-red remote control, which I intend to use to prepare a computer-controlled DCC system. Now, I'm aware that there are manufacturers that can give me a box to do this, but I'm a bit of a geek and want to build my own from the ground up:
- IguanaWorks IR transmitter/receiver
- Arduino Uno programmable sensor/activator unit
- PC-software design and control
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