Using Forced and False Perspective in HO/OO Gauge with N Gauge Models

One of the challenges when modelling in smaller scales is giving the illusion of space. HO/OO and N gauge layouts are also often synonymous with limited availability of space. It seems that fewer and fewer people have access to the once ubiquitous spare room.

This means that there are two challenges to address:

• smaller scale, less imposing models (locomotives, rolling stock and scenery);
• less space to create the illusion of more.

Backscenes are often used to good effect to create the illusion that the layout is merely a part of a larger geographic area, as are techniques for enclosing the layout using scenic breaks (such as bridges) and varying the height of rails, embankments, and so forth.


Using HO/OO and N Gauge Together to Create False Perspectives


However, there is another option - to use smaller scale models, scenic items (such as low-relief models and trees) to create an illusion of perspective. So, OO and HO modelers can use N, or even Z guage items to represent things that are distant, provided that some basic guidelines are followed.

One great example of this in action is the MRC's Copenhagen Fields layout. The rolling stock is N gauge (actually finescale 2mm standard) and the surrounding models and scenery goes right down to 1:450 to give the illusion of vast scale.

While I accept that Copenhagen Fields is also a large layout (9m x 3m), the techniques can still be applied to a smaller layout that is only 36 inches deep. To do so, however, a few guidelines need to be followed.

Scale Differences Between the Gauges

The first thing to establish is what the scale differences are between gauges (for a complete run-down, check out the Gauge & Scale Guide at RailMania). For example:

- O gauge is 1/43.5 scale
- OO gauge is 1/76 scale
- HO gauge is 1/87 scale
- N gauge is 1/148 scale
- Z gauge is 1/220 scale

Therefore, the difference between an OO gauge and N gauge model, in terms of scale is roughly half. It follows that, from a given viewpoint, there is a point at which, if an N gauge model is placed behind an OO gauge one, it will appear to be more distant, and not merely smaller.

That is the point of the false perspective, also known as forced perspective - to use a 3D model in place of a flat backscene to imply depth, hopefully giving a more realistic result.

Because of the way perspective works, pieces of scenery that are trying to force the perspective need to be diagonally behind - i.e. up and back from - the foreground objects.

There are so many variables, that often trial and error is the best way to proceed.

Trial and Error

Firstly, you need to decide what you are going to use to create the false perspective:

• low relief card models (i.e. from scalescenes.com);
• modified card models (i.e. from Metcalfe);
• modified plastic models;
• small scale models (vehicles, people, etc.) placed on the layout, in front of the back scene. 

The obvious advantage of using Scalescenes models is that they can be easily modified, and if you make a mistake, re-printed! Destroying an expensive Metcalfe kit in an attempt to make it low-relief is a bigger risk, and the same goes for plastic models.

Once you have decided what models you will use to create the false perspective, it is a case of placing the various bits and pieces of scenery on the layout and observing the effect from different points.

You will find that there are places where the effect works, and places where it doesn't. If it really doesn't work from a particular angle, consider blocking the view with a scenic break, or changing the shape of the layout.

(The late Carl Arendt wrote an excellent piece on designing micro layouts, and one trick he used was forced perspective.)

Having gone through the trial and error exercise above, the modeler will now be acutely aware that not only is there a 'sweet spot' in which models can be placed for the best affect, but that this sweet spot will move around depending on the viewer's position.

Trawling through the forums on the topic, the accepted wisdom appears to be that forced perspective is fine for backscenes and supporting scenery, but needs to be used wisely.

In addition, while three to four feet is the smallest width that most people recommend, more enclosed 'micro layouts' work well because they naturally restrict the viewer's line of sight, thereby reducing the chance that the illusion is broken.

Finally, don't ever forget that it's not just about the models and backscene. Roads need to narrow into the distance, fences and walls will diminish, and if one part of the layout is out of kilter, the illusion will start to fall apart!

Getting Power to Sidings on a 00 Gauge Track

Sidings can be tricky. They're a great place to store rolling stock when it's not in use (i.e. in a hidden fiddle yard) and can also make excellent scenic features when you just want to show off your collection of weathered coal trucks.

However, they're often out on a limb slightly, fed by a single track, probably via an insulated set of points. This can mean that they either don't get power, or it's not reliable. 

The sidings may even be part of a bolt-on fiddle yard that is constantly being removed for storage.

None of these situations are ideal, but there are a few ways to make sure that, if needed, power gets to the sidings reliably.

Sidings That Don't Need Power

There's a line of thought that says that sidings are for storage, and as such don't actually need power at all.

As long as you can back the train in, drop the carriages, trucks or wagons, and roll off again, sidings don't need power in their entirety. They do, however, need a powered section for the locomotive. Consider the following track section with hidden sidings:

In this example, the Hidden Sidings don't need power, and the transition could even be disguised as a bridge (it's currently just behind a shed!)

Getting Power to Sidings

It could be useful, though, to power the sidings, even if they are part of a removable fiddle yard, but relying on the track to power itself (even via fishplates) is probably not a good option.

Clearly soldering a drop-wire (or dropper) from the on-scene to off-scene track is also not a good idea, if the fiddle yard (or hidden sidings) are to be removable.

The answer is to source the power directly (i.e. not from the track) and use a 3.5mm jack connector or banana clips to deliver the power to the siding. For those not wanting to use solder, banana clips don't need to be soldered to the wires, whereas a 3.5mm plug and jack do need to be soldered.

On the other end of the wires, there are also solder and solder-free solutions. In both cases the webbing between the track and the chair needs to be removed to expose the track.

Holes can then be drilled under the track, and the wire fed through, and soldered to the exposed track.

For non-solder users, a small conducting screw should be used - the wire can be wound round the screw (which is screwed into the hole) and the head of the screw pushed up against the track, thereby providing it with power.

In this way, you can get power to sidings, hidden or not, without worrying about lining up the tracks or risking bending the connecting fishplates.

Folkestone MRC Annual Show

On the 7th of October 2012, I was lucky enough to visit the Folkestone, Hythe & District Model Railway Club 2012 exhibition.

It was the second time I'd visited the exhibition in as many years, and the weather was, once again, superb. There's something about a Sunday morning on the cliffs of Folkestone - the crisp air, gentle breeze, and sunshine just seem to come together to set the mood for the day.

I was, predictably, early, so took a gentle stroll along the cliff top path. There's an interesting funicular railway (the Leas Cliff Railway) that dates from 1885 which is worth a look, and often a car boot sale in the car park beneath the cliff.

Eventually it was time to meander back to the Leas Cliff Hall, buy tickets, and stand in line for entry to the show.

Flicking through the programme (I tend to buy one as a kind of souvenir), it became obvious that the day would be special - at least for me - as there were several layouts that I'd seen in magazines, but never in the flesh, so to speak.

One of these is the military themed Rowland's Castle, which I've always wanted to see running, and was surprised at the amount of detail that's left out of magazine articles on it. If you're lucky enough to see Rowland's Castle, look out for the Standstead Forest infantry camp.

The attention to detail is stunning.

The Folkestone MRC show itself is liberally spread on two floors, plus balconies and corridors, full of things to see, operate, and buy. All the stalls from last year were much as I remembered, all well stocked and relevant, but once again I was surprised that only a few of them seemed willing to accept card payment.

Hornby was there, again, extolling the virtues of their DCC system. I'll freely admit that last year I gave them the cold shoulder, after having a few bad experiences with low quality DCC gear from them in the past.

This year, I decided to have a second look at what they have to offer, as I'm evaluating computer control options for my two layouts. For those who don't know, the options are to stay with Piko, and use an IR transmitter to control the layouts.

This isn't ideal, and the feedback options are limited, so the next option is a Sprog 3 plus Heathcote Electronics interfaces, but it's still a bit of a chewing-gum and sticky-tape solution. Flexible, but tricky.

From what I saw, the Hornby Railmaster software, plus the Elite Controller (and a laptop) is the way forward, and something that I'll be investigating whilst I put together my Christmas list!

So, at the Folkestone MRC show, I saw layouts that I'd previously only seen in magazines, found a few answers to some pertinent questions relating to DCC, and saw how layouts get operated once they're built.

It's a full day for a model rail enthusiast, and perhaps half a day for those with only a casual interest, not including shopping time!

More information about next year's exhibition, which I also hope to be attending, can be found on the Folkestone MRC web site.

How to Add Sound to a Model Rail Layout

A little bit of sound on a layout can add an extra dimension to the experience, albeit at a cost.

DCC Sound

The sound is provided by a speaker, connected to a special DCC decoder that can store sound files to be played back through the speaker.

The decoder can store several sounds, depending on what the locomotive is supposed to be doing:

• idling;
• starting;
• running;
• braking;
• etc.

The decoder and speaker are then mounted in the locomotive.

DCC Sound on Locos

This can be a delicate operation : as with fitting any decoder, it requires taking the locomotive apart, and fitting both the decoder and the speaker.

Larger diesels will have space between the bogies, steam locomotives ought to have space in the tender, or in the body itself.

Smaller locomotives, such as the Class 08 diesel or 0-4-0 steam engines will be fiddly, and where possible, pre-fitted DCC sound models should be bought in preference to trying to retro fit the sound kit.

DCC Sound on the Layout

There is, however, another way, and that is to use one decoder for all the locos, mounted on the baseboard.

This has some obvious advantages, such as sound quality, and some clear disadvantages, such as the sound not following the locomotive around the layout.

Of course, a big advantage is that the decoder and speaker do not need to be mounted in the loco, although they do still need to be DCC. This is because the decoder needs to decode the control signals, decide which loco it is destined for, and play the appropriate sound file.

So, in a nutshell, that's how DCC sound works. It's a complex topic, covered in some depth in the book DCC Projects & Applications: Digital Command Control for Your Model Railroad (Model Railroader). It covers all aspects of DCC, and provides information that can be applied immediately to those who want to add DCC to their layout, or extend an existing layout.

Getting Started in Model Rail : High Street Brands

Everyone has to start somewhere in the model rail hobby, and one of the best ways is to buy some ready to run, off the shelf kit from one of the main high street brands.

There are many, many manufacturers of model rail equipment, locomotives and rolling stock, and they range from fairly specialist makes to two or three brands generally available on any high street, or via the web.

So, gauge by gauge, here is a guide to some of the most popular readily available brands for those just getting started with model rail.

OO - Hornby Railroad

Hornby International is one of the oldest established brands, with sub brands including Hornby, Hornby Railroad, and Lima.

Railroad is a hobby oriented brand, offering slightly cheaper, less detailed and lower specification locomotives and rolling stock. 

Since the acquisition of Scalextric, some of the Railroad locomotives allegedly come with a Scalextric motor, leading them to be less smooth to operate, and with unrealistic acceleration and top speeds.

Despite this, it's a good starting point for a model rail enthusiast; but be aware that the couplers are not generally compatible with other brands such as Bachmann and more expensive Hornby models.

Railroad boxes are easy to spot, as they have yellow flashing on the bottom, below the window.

OO - Hornby

Within the Hornby range, there are also various levels of finishing and price. While any model from this range will be of good quality, some are better value than others.

Where Hornby does stand out is with the excellent selection of starter packs, which are available from many toy shops. Often these are laid out next to makes like Mehano, and Lima, which can make Hornby (and Bachmann) seem a bit expensive, but the additional investment is well worth it.

OO/HO - Bachmann

Like Hornby, Bachmann has a number of sub-brands in the group, some of which produce European outline stock in HO, US also in HO, and British outline in OO.

Personally, from the various models I have purchased, Bachmann locomotives seem to be better finished, and smoother than the Hornby equivalents, but that some of the Hornby rolling stock (brake vans, for example) offer better value.

Bachmann rolling stock also all comes with standard NEM pockets, making it easy to extend the collection with more rolling stock. It is organized by era to make it easier to cross-match rolling stock without needing to overload on research!

HO - Piko

For European outline stock, Piko is probably the most accessible, and is available in Expert and Hobby, mainly French and German stock, organized by era and region. This makes it easy to match up stock and keep a consistent rake together.

Piko also make good value packs of both freight and passenger trains, complete with track, controllers, and layout ideas.

Piko Hobby boxes can be spotted by the red flashing with Hobby written on them. Piko Expert boxes have blue flashing with Expert written on.

N - Graham Farish

While the smaller gauges (N and Z) are less popular, they require less space, and are gaining in popularity.

Graham Farish, a Bachmann sub brand, provide excellent quality models, at very reasonable prices.

Z - Marklin

Marklin is a bit of an odd-ball, having chosen to implement a 3 rail power system for its locomotives, rendering it incompatible with all the others mentioned here.

For all that, in Z gauge, it does have some interesting starter packs, and is a very space-conscious way to get into model rail as a hobby.

Finally, a few notes about track. Peco is perhaps the largest manufacturer of track, but Hornby also manufactures its own. Generally, it is not possible to mix track between manufacturers, so if a Hornby pack is bought, future expansions will also need Hornby track.

However, HO and OO will both run on the same set-track (i.e. pre-cut, slot together pieces) regardless of manufacturer.

Power is supplied to the track via a special adapter, as either DC or AC. 16v AC is used for so-called DCC (digital command control) trains, while DC is used for analogue sets.

If in doubt - start with a DC (i.e. analogue) solution, as DCC can always be added at a later date. It's far harder to start with DCC as it comes with a whole slew of options, settings, and possibilities that baffle even experienced model rail enthusiasts!

Quick Question - What are "NEM" Pockets on Model Railway Stock?

NEM stands for Normal European Modelling, and the NEM Standards were developed to allow for greater standardisation and interoperability in the hobby. NEM couplings must conform to the NEM 360 standard (available in French, here) and specify the height, size, and functioning of the coupling.

The NEM Pocket standard is NEM 362 (again, in French, here) and defines the stadard for interchangeable NEM couplings. The standards are closely monitored by the US NMRA, which means that manufacturers such as Kadee can provide the market with advanced automatic (un)couplers that are NEM compliant.

NEM pockets ensure that all railway stock is compatible. Hornby (except Railroad), Bachmann, and most others adhere to these standards for HO and OO rolling stock and locomotives. There are similar standards for other scales and gauges.

The list of most common standards is as follows:

• NEM 351 - Coupling standards, terms, and general introduction;
• NEM 355 - N gauge coupling pockets standard;
• NEM 358 - TT gauge (TT scale) coupling pockets standard;
• NEM 360 - HO coupling standard;
• NEM 362 - HO coupling pockets standard;
• NEM 363 - HO replacement coupling pockets standard;
• NEM 365 - standard for O gauge coupling.

The organisation in charge of the information (MOROP) is always looking for volunteers to help translate these documents into English.

How to Set Train Address with Piko Digi Fern

The Piko Digi Fern is the name given to the remote control device that comes with the Piko Digital starter set (for example Piko 57156). Out of the box you usually get some rails, a DCC locomotive (set to C, or 003, more on that later) some rolling stock, the Digi Fern remote, and an IR receiver.

The first step is setup - and it's important when setting train addresses with the Piko Digi Fern that everything is set up correctly. There are two ways to set the address:

• on the main layout;
• on a service track.

If you intend to program "on the main", you must be certain that you know what you are doing, as the programming signal will be sent to every DCC device that is linked to the IR receiver! For this reason, I usually program on a service track - the procedure is the same.

Special note for those programming on the main layout line - please disconnect all accessories (such as DCC Cobalt switch engines or similar) and LED lights before continuing. I have lost a few LEDs due to this oversight, as well as reprogrammed a couple of accessories!

(My service track is just a bit of G231 (Piko H0 55201 H0) and a bit of G239 (Piko H0 55200 H0 Straight track G239) nailed to a board, with a couple of banana connectors to hook up the IR receiver!)

Setting the Train Address with the Piko Digi Fern

The special key to start programming is usually the third from the left on the top row, next to the red "stop" button.It looks like a double-branch or double point. There's a similar single point one next to it, used to activate DCC accessories like points and switches.

I'll call this key [P] for now. The key sequence is:

• [P][P][train address][P]

So, if [P][P]123[P] is typed, all locos on the track will get address 123. In fact, any number from 001 to 127 can be used, but the Piko Digi Fern is only really capable of handling 12 locos at once, and the IR receiver and power supply seem to peter out at around the 4th loco (depending on other accessories power draw and track length.)

During the process of setting the address, the loco will move, in twitches, so it's best to start with it  as far back on the service track as possible.

Once programming has finished (and the light on the IR receiver has stopped flashing), the train can be selected using the train button, followed by the loco address. When the system is switched on, the A - D keys are allocated to loco addresses 1 - 4, so it is easiest to stick with these numbers, as just the 'channel select' button A to D can be used to pick up control of a loco.

The official Piko Digital User Guide has now been translated into English, and can be downloaded from the Piko Web Site.

Any questions or comments can be left below in the comments section. Links are affiliate links that go to Amazon.co.uk, for which the author receives a modest commission for any products bought.

Sector Plates : A Space Saving Tip for All Scales

It doesn't matter what scale or gauge you look at, there are always people who have a limited mount of space and who come up with great solutions, and the sector plate is such a solution.


It's a space saving alternative to several kinds of standard track layout techniques, such as the run-around, which usually requires at least two opposing points.


What Does a Sector Plate Look Like?


A sector plate is essentially a piece of hinged track that can swing around to line up with one of several pieces of track.

Sector Plate Based Layout

In the diagram here, the sector plate is the piece of track in gray, which has a green cross where the pivot should be. In this diagram, it is serving as a run-around, as well as track selection to the top sidings.


The advantage of this approach over a turntable is twofold:

• cost - a decent turntable is very expensive;
• space - the sector plate can lie at the edge of the layout.

Of course, the sector plate cannot be easily automated, so will likely remain a small-to-micro layout, manually operated device.


For examples of actual layouts using sector plates, Carl Arendt's site has a whole section dedicated to them.


An alternative to this, and somewhat more prototypical, is the horizontal shuttle; it's a platform which moves side to side, horizontally, and provides much the same functionality, but at the expense of a bit more space.

Another source for layouts that use sector plates is Nigel Adams' excellent book - don't be put off by the negative comments on Amazon, they merely point out that this edition is not as updated as they would have liked. Having said that, don't buy it if you already have it, as it isn't a lot different from the old edition. What it does have, however, is a wealth of inspiration for modelers working in a limited space. (Disclaimer - yes, that's a paid link, but I wouldn't recommend the book if I didn't think it was useful!)

Building Layouts with a Roundhouse in OO/HO Gauge and N Scale Modelling

A roundhouse is a place to store locomotives, and as the name suggests is usually round. Typically, pre-built model roundhouses are described by the number of stalls that they have - Atlas, for example, has a three stall roundhouse designed to fit its specific track geometry.

On the other hand, the Faller roundhouse, pictured here in N gauge, has multiple stalls. There needs to be easy access to the stalls from the track, and so most layouts are based on a track plan that includes a turntable.

A Roundhouse with a Turntable


A track plan that uses both a roundhouse and a turntable benefits from:

• easy expandability (adding more stalls);
• easy access to stalls;
• somewhere to turn the locomotive around.

They might take up a little space, and can be both pricey and technically challenging to fit, but they provide the most flexible solution. For layouts that are restricted in space and budget, a sector plate can offer an alternative.


A Roundhouse with a Sector Plate or Traverser


A sector plate is a (usually) manually operated track selection device. It can be thought of as a piece of track on a moving platform which can slide along a horizontal plane (usually called a traverser), or at an angle (kind of like a hinged piece of track.)


Sector plates allow for selection of rolling stock (i.e. locomotives stored in a roundhouse) but do not give the ability to turn them around.


Creating a sector plate can be technically challenging, but ultimately it can help solve issues relating to space for both roundhouse layouts and those with multiple sidings.


For those who don't have the skills, then there is also another way - to use a three way point.


A Roundhouse with 3-Way Points (Switches, or Turnouts)


Three way points are expensive. They occupy much the same space as a Y-turnout in most track geometries, and so are quite compact. Whether or not they're prototypical is probably also a point for discussion.


Nonetheless, many manufacturers who supply three stall roundhouses have made them compatible with their 3 way points (switches, turnouts) and so they do offer a quick and easy way to provide access to multiple locos.


However, as with sector plates, they don't allow for turning around the loco, which is where the turntable has a real advantage.


Other Track Plan Ideas for Layouts with a Roundhouse


Finally, it is possible to use multiple points (switches, turnouts) to feed track to the roundhouse, but usually they will need to have a bit of give in the track. 


Lining up the roundhouse stalls with the track becomes an issue when using multiple points, curves, and other pieces of track.


However, some layout designs simply use the roundhouse as a feature purely to store locomotives, and have lines running out from them in all directions - in such cases there's no need to try and merge the track into a single line.

Bachmann Class 20 Railfreight Grey Red Stripe 32-029A

A while back, I purchased the Bachmann Class 20 Railfreight Grey, Red Stripe livery (32-029A). It's a DCC ready model, and comes complete with a full set of indicator discs so that you can customize it according to operating duties.


My full review of the Bachmann Class 20 loco was not very complimentary. Now, despite the negative comments and implications that I don't know what I'm talking about, it was a true and fair view of my own experiences.


It doesn't run well over points at low speed, the lack of lights makes it look cheap next to the excellent Class 37, and it's a noisy little loco, with a persistent engine whine.


However, all of these are probably fixable. For a start, I'm going to swap the Hornby Sapphire decoder for a Lenz or Gaugemaster equivalent. Then, I'll borrow a proper controller so I can program the decoder properly - as regular readers will know my Piko Digi Fern is a great infra-red controller, but can't program beyond setting the address!


Finally, lighting is going to be fitted internally, and probably externally, although I'll need to read up a bit on how to control it via the decoder (if that's even possible!) so that they can be switched on or off.


What I'm going for is a DCC sound and lights version of the Class 20 Railfreight Grey Red Stripe livery to rival the features on Bachmann's Class 20 D8138 in BR Green which, by all accounts is a bit of a cracker!


All in all, I want to prove that just because a loco doesn't quite work as I want it out of the box, even a novice like me can turn it into something that I'll be happy with!

Delayed (or Delay) Action Tension Lock Uncoupling Solutions

Tension lock coupling is very common in model railroad rolling stock for the simple fact that the vast majority of locomotives, wagons, trucks and carriages come equipped with a tension lock coupling of one type or another.

The simple tension lock is easy enough to understand - each coupling has a little hinged hook that pops up and over the bar of the coupling on the opposite number. In this way, each coupling links to the other in a secure fashion.

Before exploring the world of delayed action (or delay action) tension lock uncoupling, it's worth taking a quick refresher in standard manual and semi-automated tension lock uncoupling techniques.

Tension Lock Manual Uncoupling

The trouble is that when it comes to separating the rolling stock, a manual approach must be taken. The little hooks need to be lifted up, at the same time, and the locomotive driven away to separate it from the rake.

Many model railway enthusiasts have come up with a variety of ingenious hooks and bars that can be used to decouple the tension locks, but most of them require some kind of unprototypical intervention.

Model railway manufacturers have also added their own solutions - usually taking the shape of decoupling ramps or between the rails devices to aid uncoupling in a semi-automated way. 

Tension Lock Auto-Uncoupling

For many, though this isn't enough. Automating the tension lock uncoupling process has become a preoccupation of many model railroad operators. 

For example, Brian Kirby (see Brian Kirby Uncoupler Variations) has developed a fairly sophisticated do-it-yourself magnetic decoupling solution, that can be enhanced using movable and electro- magnets.

This technique requires that non-metallic (or at least, non-magnetic) tension lock couplers are used, ruling out the many owners of Hornby rolling stock. Even there, though there is a solution (see How do I Convert Old Hornby Couplings to New Type) but it requires changing the couplings themselves.

If you're going to do that, some might argue, why not go the whole way to fully automated, delayed action tension lock uncoupling solutions?

Delayed or Delay Action Tension Lock Uncoupling

Delayed action (or sometimes delay action) tension lock uncoupling is a way of automating the uncoupling process such that the uncoupling doesn't actually take place until the direction of the rake is reversed, allowing the loco to separate.

Imagine an Inglenook switching puzzle. With regular uncoupling, some kind of uncoupling device has to be placed at each fork so that trucks (wagons, or carriages) can be spotted on any one of the sidings.

As the article Inglenook Kadee Magnet Placement Advice points out, delayed action uncoupling allows a single uncoupling device to be placed at the throat of the Inglenook, and rolling stock spotted in any of the sidings.

To achieve all of this, the most common solution is to use something called a knuckle coupling. The most popular manufacturer is Kadee (see the blog post on adding Kadee couplings to rolling stock.)

There are other solutions, which we will examine in future posts. On a personal note, I have used Kadee and the Brian Kirby alternative, and have found that both have their uses, with a slight preference to the simplicity (and cheapness!) of the Kirby magnet uncoupling solution.

The 808 Keychain Camera for Model Rail Enthusiasts

For any model rail enthusiasts wanting to fit a camera to their rolling stock, one of the best I've found is known as the 808 Keychain Camera, or sometimes the 808 Keychain Spy Camera.

It's available from various places online, but the most reliable place I've found is Amazon; just follow this link: 808 Keychain Camera from Amazon.

What is the 808 Keychain Camera?

Simply put, it's a range of cameras that can take photos and video at a variety of resolutions, depending on the model, storing them on an on-board micro SD card.

The camera looks like a key fob, with an easily removable key chain at one end, some buttons and a small indicator light on top, and a lens and microphone at the other end.

It charges from USB, and USB can also be used to transfer photos and videos, although it's probably quicker and more reliable to unplug the micro SD card, and use a USB micro SD card reader.

Why is it Good for Model Rail Enthusiasts?

The camera is ideal for model rail, as it is small, light, and above all, cheap ($10-$20 for the cheaper models, and around $80 for the HD versions). The $20 versions are cheap enough that it's worth experimenting with them by taking them to pieces and fitting them inside rolling stock (i.e. containers or loads).

On the other hand, they're light enough that you can use double sided sticky tape, Velcro, or just an elastic band to attach them temporarily to rolling stock and locos.

The quality might not be the best, and they do need to be  used in good light, but the trade-off is some great on-board rail-height video that you can't get any other way!

Getting the Most from Your 808 Keychain Camera

Here are some tips from bitter experience:

• they can take about 40 minutes of video at a time;
• when they're plugged in, they charge, but keep an eye on the light, and unplug it when it goes out, otherwise they overheat which kills the battery;
• don't press all the buttons at once, and use the Internet to research operating instructions, as the ones that come with it are less than perfect!

Finally, Chuch Lohr has everything you could possibly want to know on his dedicated 808 keychain web site. I'll also throw up some sample videos from my own layout if there's enough demand.

Meanwhile, check out these awesome videos taken with 808 keychain spy cameras placed on home-made rockets!

How Do I Convert Old Hornby Couplings to New Type

One question that comes up frequently in relation to Hornby trains is "how do I convert from 'old' Hornby couplings to 'new' types of coupling?"

To answer this question, it's important to cover a number of topics, and I've written at least two articles (linked to at the end of this post) relating to my own experiences.

So, let's round up the main points, and hopefully answer the question in hand!

Identifying Hornby Couplings

In my experience, there are several kinds of Hornby coupling. The first (and as appears on the 'Railroad' range) is known as the D-ring, or Lima D-Ring, coupling. It's a moulded coupling, and part of the chassis of the loco or wagon, shaped like a big D.

It's also commonly found on the Hornby Thomas the Tank range.

At the other end of the spectrum are the tension lock couplings which fit into little pockets on the bogies.

There may be other kinds in between - I don't have enough experience with Hornby locos or rolling stock to be sure!

In any case, they'll either be moulded to the chassis, or fitted to rotating pockets on the chassis, or possibly on the bogie itself. The rotating pockets conform to the NEM standard.

Adding New Couplings (NEM)

NEM couplings are the new standard - they're a standard height above the rail, and provide an easy way to change between regular tension lock couplings and specific types like Kadee automatic (un)couplings.

They have a little spring clip that keeps them in place, but which can be slipped out by pushing the ends together with a pair of pliers.

Here's a selection NEM couplings from Amazon that are available for fitting to any piece of rolling stock:

• Bachmann NEM Couplings with Pocket
• Hornby NEM close couplings (i.e. not D-Ring) for NEM pockets
• Graham Farish N Gauge NEM couplings

However, these are only useful if your loco, wagon, or carriage, has a NEM pocket. If not, then you'll need to fit one yourself. For HO/OO modelers with a bit of skill Amazon used to have a NEM adapter that will take any of the HO/OO couplings above, but is now seemingly only available from the Amazon.de site.

Feel free to try them both:

• Amazon.co.uk: NEM adapter
• Amazon.de: NEM Adapter

Aftermarket NEM Solutions

Here are a few example Symoba couplings from DCC Supplies. They consist of a plate and vertical bar, onto which the pocket itself can be pushed. Usually, the kit will come with a gauge to get the correct height - it's a standard after, all - and will need to be glued in place on the chassis.

The vertical bar will then rotate from side to side, allowing the pockets on the loco and wagon/carriage to remain aligned on turns.

In certain circumstances, the operation may require a change of bogie. It's important to get the right one for the class of loco, or other rolling stock. Here is a selection from the New Modellers Shop - they're all Hornby in this case, but digging around the site ought to throw up other makes, too.

As promised, here are the direct links to my own experiences, adding a Symoba NEM pocket to a Hornby Railroad shunter, and then returning it to D-ring goodness, using the NEM pocket to change from Kadee to a Hornby NEM-compatible D-ring coupling.

•  Adding Symoba NEM Pockets to Hornby Locomotives 
•  Hornby NEM Pocket Couplings 

For those who really want to get their hands dirty,Fine Tuning and Maintaining 00 Gauge Models contains a lot of great advice for a variety of different modification tasks. 

(Disclaimer : The links to products above go to affiliate pages, where, if you buy something, I make a modest amount to put towards funding this great hobby!)

Brian Kirby Uncoupler Variations

Over the years, a fair amount has been written about the legendary Brian Kirby Uncoupler. For those who aren't familiar with it; it's a way of cheaply modifying the tension lock coupling found on Bachmann stock so that it can be uncoupled using a magnet.


Essentially, it revolves around gluing staples to the tails of the individual couplers so that they can be flicked up and down as the staple is attracted downwards, forcing up the tension lock.


(There are some links at the end of this piece to help you visualize that a bit better!)


However, there are a few things that can be done to improve this clever idea, and while it cannot be made to replicate the action of delayed decoupling products such as those from Kadee, they can be made to behave a bit more naturally.


Electro-Magnetic Variation


The first is easy - use an electromagnet that can be switched on and off to decouple the stock at will. This prevents mistakenly running over the magnet slowly, and decoupling the stock unintentionally.


The trouble with this is that you need an awful lot of electromagnets to have enough decoupling points to make it worthwhile...


Sliding Plate Variation


...unless you mount them on sliding plates. These can slide in one of two ways - up and down, rather than using an electromagnet, or forwards and backwards. For those familiar with wire-in-tube point changing, this idea won't be that novel.


The magnet is mounted on a plate which can then be slid backwards and forwards under the layout (or in a special groove cut into the baseboard) thereby allowing decoupling under multiple lines.


There are bound to be combinations of these that can be used together to make even more variations, but with these basic techniques, operators can finally wave goodbye to the 'big hand from the sky'!


Brian Kirby Uncoupler Links


The original 'Magnetic Uncoupling for Bachmann Couplings' post on the Model Rail Forum web site.


A YouTube Video of the Kirby Uncoupler in action.

Kudos to Auhagen - Missing HO 11 363 Fussgangerbrucke Piece Received!

Happy New Year to all my readers and fans.


I'm starting this year with a story that shows that customer service is alive and well in model railroading.


Last year I bought a model from my favorite maker - Auhagen. If you're not familiar with the Auhagen name, they're a quality manufacturer of HO/TT and N buildings and accessories for European railroad modelers.


The kit in question was from their Stako System range - a metal footbridge that will find itself a place on my industrial layout. It's easy to build, realistic, and can be painted and detailed to look really authentic.


So far, so good. I opened the box and started building, without checking the contents beyond a visual estimation that everything 'looked' to be present. Sadly, I got near the end, and realized that there was a flight of steps missing.


The handrails were there, the supports, and everything else, but the actual steps seemed not to be.


So, I emailed Auhagen, explained the situation, and asked if they could forward the two missing pieces. After a bit of back and forth with the excellent customer service representative, and provision of a photo (not a scan, but a photo!) of the instructions, they offered to send them to me for free.


Two days later, and at their busiest time of year, the parts arrived, and I now have a top notch footbridge, which I'll photo in situ once it's installed on the layout.


Two things to take away from this feel-good story : one - check your bits, before you build, and two never be afraid to deal with customer service if you feel they've fallen short. 


Yes, the contract is with the shop where you bought the kit, but any company worth their salt will help you out if you get stuck.


Thank you Auhagen, it's a great start to the 2012!