Delayed (or Delay) Action Tension Lock Uncoupling Solutions

Tension lock coupling is very common in model railroad rolling stock for the simple fact that the vast majority of locomotives, wagons, trucks and carriages come equipped with a tension lock coupling of one type or another.

The simple tension lock is easy enough to understand - each coupling has a little hinged hook that pops up and over the bar of the coupling on the opposite number. In this way, each coupling links to the other in a secure fashion.

Before exploring the world of delayed action (or delay action) tension lock uncoupling, it's worth taking a quick refresher in standard manual and semi-automated tension lock uncoupling techniques.

Tension Lock Manual Uncoupling

The trouble is that when it comes to separating the rolling stock, a manual approach must be taken. The little hooks need to be lifted up, at the same time, and the locomotive driven away to separate it from the rake.

Many model railway enthusiasts have come up with a variety of ingenious hooks and bars that can be used to decouple the tension locks, but most of them require some kind of unprototypical intervention.

Model railway manufacturers have also added their own solutions - usually taking the shape of decoupling ramps or between the rails devices to aid uncoupling in a semi-automated way. 

Tension Lock Auto-Uncoupling

For many, though this isn't enough. Automating the tension lock uncoupling process has become a preoccupation of many model railroad operators. 

For example, Brian Kirby (see Brian Kirby Uncoupler Variations) has developed a fairly sophisticated do-it-yourself magnetic decoupling solution, that can be enhanced using movable and electro- magnets.

This technique requires that non-metallic (or at least, non-magnetic) tension lock couplers are used, ruling out the many owners of Hornby rolling stock. Even there, though there is a solution (see How do I Convert Old Hornby Couplings to New Type) but it requires changing the couplings themselves.

If you're going to do that, some might argue, why not go the whole way to fully automated, delayed action tension lock uncoupling solutions?

Delayed or Delay Action Tension Lock Uncoupling

Delayed action (or sometimes delay action) tension lock uncoupling is a way of automating the uncoupling process such that the uncoupling doesn't actually take place until the direction of the rake is reversed, allowing the loco to separate.

Imagine an Inglenook switching puzzle. With regular uncoupling, some kind of uncoupling device has to be placed at each fork so that trucks (wagons, or carriages) can be spotted on any one of the sidings.

As the article Inglenook Kadee Magnet Placement Advice points out, delayed action uncoupling allows a single uncoupling device to be placed at the throat of the Inglenook, and rolling stock spotted in any of the sidings.

To achieve all of this, the most common solution is to use something called a knuckle coupling. The most popular manufacturer is Kadee (see the blog post on adding Kadee couplings to rolling stock.)

There are other solutions, which we will examine in future posts. On a personal note, I have used Kadee and the Brian Kirby alternative, and have found that both have their uses, with a slight preference to the simplicity (and cheapness!) of the Kirby magnet uncoupling solution.

The 808 Keychain Camera for Model Rail Enthusiasts

For any model rail enthusiasts wanting to fit a camera to their rolling stock, one of the best I've found is known as the 808 Keychain Camera, or sometimes the 808 Keychain Spy Camera.

It's available from various places online, but the most reliable place I've found is Amazon; just follow this link: 808 Keychain Camera from Amazon.

What is the 808 Keychain Camera?

Simply put, it's a range of cameras that can take photos and video at a variety of resolutions, depending on the model, storing them on an on-board micro SD card.

The camera looks like a key fob, with an easily removable key chain at one end, some buttons and a small indicator light on top, and a lens and microphone at the other end.

It charges from USB, and USB can also be used to transfer photos and videos, although it's probably quicker and more reliable to unplug the micro SD card, and use a USB micro SD card reader.

Why is it Good for Model Rail Enthusiasts?

The camera is ideal for model rail, as it is small, light, and above all, cheap ($10-$20 for the cheaper models, and around $80 for the HD versions). The $20 versions are cheap enough that it's worth experimenting with them by taking them to pieces and fitting them inside rolling stock (i.e. containers or loads).

On the other hand, they're light enough that you can use double sided sticky tape, Velcro, or just an elastic band to attach them temporarily to rolling stock and locos.

The quality might not be the best, and they do need to be  used in good light, but the trade-off is some great on-board rail-height video that you can't get any other way!

Getting the Most from Your 808 Keychain Camera

Here are some tips from bitter experience:

• they can take about 40 minutes of video at a time;
• when they're plugged in, they charge, but keep an eye on the light, and unplug it when it goes out, otherwise they overheat which kills the battery;
• don't press all the buttons at once, and use the Internet to research operating instructions, as the ones that come with it are less than perfect!

Finally, Chuch Lohr has everything you could possibly want to know on his dedicated 808 keychain web site. I'll also throw up some sample videos from my own layout if there's enough demand.

Meanwhile, check out these awesome videos taken with 808 keychain spy cameras placed on home-made rockets!

How Do I Convert Old Hornby Couplings to New Type

One question that comes up frequently in relation to Hornby trains is "how do I convert from 'old' Hornby couplings to 'new' types of coupling?"

To answer this question, it's important to cover a number of topics, and I've written at least two articles (linked to at the end of this post) relating to my own experiences.

So, let's round up the main points, and hopefully answer the question in hand!

Identifying Hornby Couplings

In my experience, there are several kinds of Hornby coupling. The first (and as appears on the 'Railroad' range) is known as the D-ring, or Lima D-Ring, coupling. It's a moulded coupling, and part of the chassis of the loco or wagon, shaped like a big D.

It's also commonly found on the Hornby Thomas the Tank range.

At the other end of the spectrum are the tension lock couplings which fit into little pockets on the bogies.

There may be other kinds in between - I don't have enough experience with Hornby locos or rolling stock to be sure!

In any case, they'll either be moulded to the chassis, or fitted to rotating pockets on the chassis, or possibly on the bogie itself. The rotating pockets conform to the NEM standard.

Adding New Couplings (NEM)

NEM couplings are the new standard - they're a standard height above the rail, and provide an easy way to change between regular tension lock couplings and specific types like Kadee automatic (un)couplings.

They have a little spring clip that keeps them in place, but which can be slipped out by pushing the ends together with a pair of pliers.

Here's a selection NEM couplings from Amazon that are available for fitting to any piece of rolling stock:

• Bachmann NEM Couplings with Pocket
• Hornby NEM close couplings (i.e. not D-Ring) for NEM pockets
• Graham Farish N Gauge NEM couplings

However, these are only useful if your loco, wagon, or carriage, has a NEM pocket. If not, then you'll need to fit one yourself. For HO/OO modelers with a bit of skill Amazon used to have a NEM adapter that will take any of the HO/OO couplings above, but is now seemingly only available from the Amazon.de site.

Feel free to try them both:

• Amazon.co.uk: NEM adapter
• Amazon.de: NEM Adapter

Aftermarket NEM Solutions

Here are a few example Symoba couplings from DCC Supplies. They consist of a plate and vertical bar, onto which the pocket itself can be pushed. Usually, the kit will come with a gauge to get the correct height - it's a standard after, all - and will need to be glued in place on the chassis.

The vertical bar will then rotate from side to side, allowing the pockets on the loco and wagon/carriage to remain aligned on turns.

In certain circumstances, the operation may require a change of bogie. It's important to get the right one for the class of loco, or other rolling stock. Here is a selection from the New Modellers Shop - they're all Hornby in this case, but digging around the site ought to throw up other makes, too.

As promised, here are the direct links to my own experiences, adding a Symoba NEM pocket to a Hornby Railroad shunter, and then returning it to D-ring goodness, using the NEM pocket to change from Kadee to a Hornby NEM-compatible D-ring coupling.

•  Adding Symoba NEM Pockets to Hornby Locomotives 
•  Hornby NEM Pocket Couplings 

For those who really want to get their hands dirty,Fine Tuning and Maintaining 00 Gauge Models contains a lot of great advice for a variety of different modification tasks. 

(Disclaimer : The links to products above go to affiliate pages, where, if you buy something, I make a modest amount to put towards funding this great hobby!)

Brian Kirby Uncoupler Variations

Over the years, a fair amount has been written about the legendary Brian Kirby Uncoupler. For those who aren't familiar with it; it's a way of cheaply modifying the tension lock coupling found on Bachmann stock so that it can be uncoupled using a magnet.


Essentially, it revolves around gluing staples to the tails of the individual couplers so that they can be flicked up and down as the staple is attracted downwards, forcing up the tension lock.


(There are some links at the end of this piece to help you visualize that a bit better!)


However, there are a few things that can be done to improve this clever idea, and while it cannot be made to replicate the action of delayed decoupling products such as those from Kadee, they can be made to behave a bit more naturally.


Electro-Magnetic Variation


The first is easy - use an electromagnet that can be switched on and off to decouple the stock at will. This prevents mistakenly running over the magnet slowly, and decoupling the stock unintentionally.


The trouble with this is that you need an awful lot of electromagnets to have enough decoupling points to make it worthwhile...


Sliding Plate Variation


...unless you mount them on sliding plates. These can slide in one of two ways - up and down, rather than using an electromagnet, or forwards and backwards. For those familiar with wire-in-tube point changing, this idea won't be that novel.


The magnet is mounted on a plate which can then be slid backwards and forwards under the layout (or in a special groove cut into the baseboard) thereby allowing decoupling under multiple lines.


There are bound to be combinations of these that can be used together to make even more variations, but with these basic techniques, operators can finally wave goodbye to the 'big hand from the sky'!


Brian Kirby Uncoupler Links


The original 'Magnetic Uncoupling for Bachmann Couplings' post on the Model Rail Forum web site.


A YouTube Video of the Kirby Uncoupler in action.

Kudos to Auhagen - Missing HO 11 363 Fussgangerbrucke Piece Received!

Happy New Year to all my readers and fans.


I'm starting this year with a story that shows that customer service is alive and well in model railroading.


Last year I bought a model from my favorite maker - Auhagen. If you're not familiar with the Auhagen name, they're a quality manufacturer of HO/TT and N buildings and accessories for European railroad modelers.


The kit in question was from their Stako System range - a metal footbridge that will find itself a place on my industrial layout. It's easy to build, realistic, and can be painted and detailed to look really authentic.


So far, so good. I opened the box and started building, without checking the contents beyond a visual estimation that everything 'looked' to be present. Sadly, I got near the end, and realized that there was a flight of steps missing.


The handrails were there, the supports, and everything else, but the actual steps seemed not to be.


So, I emailed Auhagen, explained the situation, and asked if they could forward the two missing pieces. After a bit of back and forth with the excellent customer service representative, and provision of a photo (not a scan, but a photo!) of the instructions, they offered to send them to me for free.


Two days later, and at their busiest time of year, the parts arrived, and I now have a top notch footbridge, which I'll photo in situ once it's installed on the layout.


Two things to take away from this feel-good story : one - check your bits, before you build, and two never be afraid to deal with customer service if you feel they've fallen short. 


Yes, the contract is with the shop where you bought the kit, but any company worth their salt will help you out if you get stuck.


Thank you Auhagen, it's a great start to the 2012!