OO Gauge Fiddle Yard Plans

Whether your model rail layout lives at home, goes on the road, or is an exhibition piece, fiddle yards are a vital part of its design.

There are many variants on OO gauge fiddle yard plans, and a lot of possible pitfalls. This article aims to sum up the considerations, and give a few examples of fiddle yard designs to help you avoid mistakes and inspire your own designs.

What is a Fiddle Yard?

There are two kinds of fiddle yard: the scenic fiddle yard and the off-scene fiddle yard.

For small layouts, a scenic fiddle yard is often used; it is either part of the layout that is not being employed in the running scenario, or plays an active part. For example, carriage works can be an excellent place to store lots of wagons!

The problem with a scenic fiddle yard -- which is often seen as an advantage! -- is that it is always visible, and as such needs to look reasonably prototypical. The design is therefore pretty important, as besides modelling a real siding, the fiddle yard needs to get the most out of the space required. After all, it represents the rest of the railway network.

Off-scene fiddle yards take more space, but can usually hold a lot more stock because they can be designed with storage efficiency in mind, rather than prototypical appearance.

Effectively, they aren't part of the layout itself, and as such also do not usually need to be ballasted, or otherwise decorated. However, you need to remember that they have to be accessible, and automated as far as possible to prevent them becoming more time-consuming than is absolutely necessary. So, for example, there's no point thinking about the lack of realism in using uncoupling ramps: nobody will see them anyway, so use the most reliable, speedy and appropriate uncoupling method that is available.

Fiddle Yard Mistakes

The first mistake I made was in forgetting that although my own layout is an oval, the sidings have created a situation known as 'facing sidings' and I failed to provide a run-around facility when installing the scenic fiddle yard.

This means that once wagons are shunted into a siding, they can only ever be pulled out, which then traps the locomotive at the other end, as there is no way for it to uncouple, run around the train, and push into the opposite sidings.

My advice: always provide a run-around if your fiddle yard creates facing sidings.

The next mistake I came across recently at a show, where there was a very deep fiddle yard (some 10 lanes), and the last lane was up against a wall.

This meant that when the inevitable happened, and the carriages jumped the points at the far side, it was next to impossible to reach across to fiddle the train back onto the tracks!

So, my advice: don't go for deep fiddle yards, make them long, and segmented with switchback arrangements instead.

Finally, I have an issue with track spacing in my fiddle yards; again because I wanted to get as much rolling stock in as possible.

My advice is to stick with 'standard' track spacing, because even if you use express points (the longer ones), there is always the risk of collisions in a small space designed for high frequency shunting and fully loaded sidings that run right up to the mouth of the points.

How to Make a Fiddle Yard?

Usually, fiddle yards are created with lengths of track (I tend to use offcuts, but these can be unreliable) and points that give access to an entirely symmetrical and hence fairly unrealistic collection of 'lanes' containing rolling stock.

In many cases, it bolts on to the scenic section of the layout. Access can be hidden behind buildings, or through tunnels, to disguise the fact that the 'rest of the railway network' is just a storage and retrieval system for carriages, wagons and locomotives!

If you are really pushed for space, then this article on Fiddle Yards for Small Spaces also looks at sector plates and traversers as a way to reduce the space required.

For those unfamiliar with the concepts, a sector plate is just a reduced turntable with a pivoting track that gives access to difefrent 'lanes', whereas a traverser involves sliding a piece of track either horizontally or vertically to give access to 'cassettes' containing rolling stock.

Making fiddle yard cassettes yourself is a time-consuming process, but the Nelevation Nelevator product provides an expensive, if extremely elegant solution.

There's also only really one book on the subject: the excellent 'Designing and Building Fiddle Yards' by Richard Bardsley, which is available as a paperback and Kindle book.

For further insights into fiddle yard design, model rail enthusiast, and writer,n Stephen Chapman has a page all about fiddle yard plans.

What is the Space Needed for OO Gauge Layouts?

This is a question that I always get asked by people who are either new to the hobby, or who are more used to smaller (or even bigger) layouts. The short answer is that it depends on what kind of layout you would like to operate.

My brother in law asked me recently why I didn't have a continuous running layout in my attic, and I replied that I preferred shunting operations. I have the space, but not the inclination.

So, how much space is needed. According to measurements taken from this Hornby track geometry guide, it is possible to get an oval based on first radius curves into a 4x3 foot space. However, this doesn't allow for much of a safety net for falling locos, and if you're planning on putting it under a bed, in a box, then you may find you have trouble with overhanging rolling stock going round the tight corners.

A better size is probably 4x5 feet. This will allow you to use second radius curves, and still have a decent margin around the edge of the baseboard.

Beyond this, those with whole rooms to play with get to play with double ovals, third radius and above curves, and so on.

On the shunting side, shelf layouts (see What's the Ideal Shelf Layout Size) are popular in OO gauge, as they can be transportable and extendable, and don't take up too much space. Even with only 30-40 cm to play with, a decent scenario can be modeled, complete with stations, wayside stops, and industrial areas.

So, there's no simple answer to the question of space, but hopefully these hints have given you a few areas to explore, and discover what would be, for you, the ideal size of layout.

Customising HO/OO Buffer Stops

I'll be honest - I'm not much of a scratch-builder, but I don't balk at a bit of kit-bashing or customising from time to time. Recently, I looked at the various standard PIKO brand buffer stops on my layout, and decided that they just looked a bit boring.

In the quest for a more interesting solution, I stumbled across the Peco SL-41 Buffer Stop, which is a cheap, easy-to-assemble kit that I've used for both OO and HO layouts.

One of the things I like about this kit is that it's so simple, it's really easy to customise. For example, I painted the wood, added some grass, and topped it off with some ballast to make the texture and colouring a bit more realistic.

I also came across these Gaugemaster Buffer Stop Lights, which can be added to the standard buffer stop and operate on both DCC and DC. However, be warned that on DC the results are a little variable, since the lights take their power directly from the track. On DCC layouts, they light red at all times.

With these two small additions, you can really add some life to the layout. I'll be posting some step-by-step pictures to show what can be achieved when I'm next in a building mood.

Using Forced and False Perspective in HO/OO Gauge with N Gauge Models

One of the challenges when modelling in smaller scales is giving the illusion of space. HO/OO and N gauge layouts are also often synonymous with limited availability of space. It seems that fewer and fewer people have access to the once ubiquitous spare room.

This means that there are two challenges to address:

• smaller scale, less imposing models (locomotives, rolling stock and scenery);
• less space to create the illusion of more.

Backscenes are often used to good effect to create the illusion that the layout is merely a part of a larger geographic area, as are techniques for enclosing the layout using scenic breaks (such as bridges) and varying the height of rails, embankments, and so forth.


Using HO/OO and N Gauge Together to Create False Perspectives


However, there is another option - to use smaller scale models, scenic items (such as low-relief models and trees) to create an illusion of perspective. So, OO and HO modelers can use N, or even Z guage items to represent things that are distant, provided that some basic guidelines are followed.

One great example of this in action is the MRC's Copenhagen Fields layout. The rolling stock is N gauge (actually finescale 2mm standard) and the surrounding models and scenery goes right down to 1:450 to give the illusion of vast scale.

While I accept that Copenhagen Fields is also a large layout (9m x 3m), the techniques can still be applied to a smaller layout that is only 36 inches deep. To do so, however, a few guidelines need to be followed.

Scale Differences Between the Gauges

The first thing to establish is what the scale differences are between gauges (for a complete run-down, check out the Gauge & Scale Guide at RailMania). For example:

- O gauge is 1/43.5 scale
- OO gauge is 1/76 scale
- HO gauge is 1/87 scale
- N gauge is 1/148 scale
- Z gauge is 1/220 scale

Therefore, the difference between an OO gauge and N gauge model, in terms of scale is roughly half. It follows that, from a given viewpoint, there is a point at which, if an N gauge model is placed behind an OO gauge one, it will appear to be more distant, and not merely smaller.

That is the point of the false perspective, also known as forced perspective - to use a 3D model in place of a flat backscene to imply depth, hopefully giving a more realistic result.

Because of the way perspective works, pieces of scenery that are trying to force the perspective need to be diagonally behind - i.e. up and back from - the foreground objects.

There are so many variables, that often trial and error is the best way to proceed.

Trial and Error

Firstly, you need to decide what you are going to use to create the false perspective:

• low relief card models (i.e. from scalescenes.com);
• modified card models (i.e. from Metcalfe);
• modified plastic models;
• small scale models (vehicles, people, etc.) placed on the layout, in front of the back scene. 

The obvious advantage of using Scalescenes models is that they can be easily modified, and if you make a mistake, re-printed! Destroying an expensive Metcalfe kit in an attempt to make it low-relief is a bigger risk, and the same goes for plastic models.

Once you have decided what models you will use to create the false perspective, it is a case of placing the various bits and pieces of scenery on the layout and observing the effect from different points.

You will find that there are places where the effect works, and places where it doesn't. If it really doesn't work from a particular angle, consider blocking the view with a scenic break, or changing the shape of the layout.

(The late Carl Arendt wrote an excellent piece on designing micro layouts, and one trick he used was forced perspective.)

Having gone through the trial and error exercise above, the modeler will now be acutely aware that not only is there a 'sweet spot' in which models can be placed for the best affect, but that this sweet spot will move around depending on the viewer's position.

Trawling through the forums on the topic, the accepted wisdom appears to be that forced perspective is fine for backscenes and supporting scenery, but needs to be used wisely.

In addition, while three to four feet is the smallest width that most people recommend, more enclosed 'micro layouts' work well because they naturally restrict the viewer's line of sight, thereby reducing the chance that the illusion is broken.

Finally, don't ever forget that it's not just about the models and backscene. Roads need to narrow into the distance, fences and walls will diminish, and if one part of the layout is out of kilter, the illusion will start to fall apart!

Sector Plates : A Space Saving Tip for All Scales

It doesn't matter what scale or gauge you look at, there are always people who have a limited mount of space and who come up with great solutions, and the sector plate is such a solution.


It's a space saving alternative to several kinds of standard track layout techniques, such as the run-around, which usually requires at least two opposing points.


What Does a Sector Plate Look Like?


A sector plate is essentially a piece of hinged track that can swing around to line up with one of several pieces of track.

Sector Plate Based Layout

In the diagram here, the sector plate is the piece of track in gray, which has a green cross where the pivot should be. In this diagram, it is serving as a run-around, as well as track selection to the top sidings.


The advantage of this approach over a turntable is twofold:

• cost - a decent turntable is very expensive;
• space - the sector plate can lie at the edge of the layout.

Of course, the sector plate cannot be easily automated, so will likely remain a small-to-micro layout, manually operated device.


For examples of actual layouts using sector plates, Carl Arendt's site has a whole section dedicated to them.


An alternative to this, and somewhat more prototypical, is the horizontal shuttle; it's a platform which moves side to side, horizontally, and provides much the same functionality, but at the expense of a bit more space.

Another source for layouts that use sector plates is Nigel Adams' excellent book - don't be put off by the negative comments on Amazon, they merely point out that this edition is not as updated as they would have liked. Having said that, don't buy it if you already have it, as it isn't a lot different from the old edition. What it does have, however, is a wealth of inspiration for modelers working in a limited space. (Disclaimer - yes, that's a paid link, but I wouldn't recommend the book if I didn't think it was useful!)